Got reel mower questions?
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{ 217 comments… read them below or add one }
We have a reel mower and I like it because it’s never broken, the kids can always start it and it can be stored up on the wall of the shed. My husband says that the proper method to cut the lawn with it is to use a back and forth method much like vacuuming the carpet. I say that you should just walk steadly just like with a power mower. Which is the correct way?
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Thanks for your question.
If they both end up with a satisfactorily cut lawn, then who is to say, really?
I personally use your method of just walking steadily and pushing it back and forth across the lawn.
In my experience, most people only resort to the back-and-forth-hacking style of mowing with a reel mower if the grass is overgrown, or they have a mower that has something wrong with it.
But if you can mow with it steadily and he mows with it like that and prefers it, then I say more power to him! Let him mow more often to “prove that he is right.”
My fiance and I are about to move into our first house, and we are trying to be as “green” as possible with our home purchases. We want to get a reel mower but aren’t sure where to look and what kind to get. Is there any benefit to the different sizes – is a wider mower better than a more narrow one for any reason other than a speedier mowing since more grass is cut at once? Can we purchase one at our local Lowe’s or Home Depot, or should we look somewhere else?
Thanks!
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Thanks for your question.
The big box stores do sometimes carry reel mowers, although they may or may not be in stock. Last time I checked, Home Depot carried the Scotts Classic and maybe another model. Lowes carried some no-name Chinese brand I had never heard of, and wouldn’t personally ever buy. (Which is ironic, because I usually like Lowes better than Home Depot for everything else!)
The Brill reel mower is not sold in big box stores.
I work at Clean Air Gardening, so of course I’m going to recommend that you buy it from there.
Narrower mowers are usually lighter and easier to maneuver, but they don’t mow as quickly as the wide ones, because you have to make more passes across the lawn. If you have Bermuda, St Augustine or Zoysia, I typically recommend the Scotts Classic. For most other grasses, I typically recommend one of the Brill models. If you are in the northern half of the country, you probably won’t have those three types of grasses I mentioned.
I just bought a used reel lawn mower – it looked like is was in great shape, however, after rolling it just a little, the blades “squeaked” during rotation.
Could it be that all it needs is a generous spray of WD40 or is it sign of something else? I’d really like to start using it but the squeak is unbearable!
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Thanks for your question.
If it’s incredibly hard to push, then the blades might be too tight against the cutter bar, and that’s making your noise.
It could be that the mower has just gotten a little rusty, so pushing it around for 10 minutes will solve the problem on its own.
Hitting it with some WD-40 probably wouldn’t hurt anything.
If something is really wrong with it, then it probably won’t cut well, or will be very hard to push.
We had a Scotts reel mower that left a few tall leaves of grass every time I mowed. The next week, those leaves were too tall to mow, and a few others were missed. By the third week, we called our lawn service back. I am willing to have an imperfect lawn, but the lawn just looked unmowed.
Is this problem unique to the Scotts mower? Would a Brill solve this problem? I liked using the reel mower.
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Thanks for your question.
Sounds to me like you had a mower where the blades were just out of adjustment. I think adjusting them correctly would have solved your issue.
So switching to a different mower probably wouldn’t be necessary.
I want to buy the largest manual reel mower available. I see the scott’s classic 20″, is there anything larger?
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That is the biggest reel mower that I am aware of.
I think once you get past 20 inches wide, you get to the point where it would be too hard to push the mower through the grass without a motor. So that’s probably the maximum size that you’ll find.
I just bought a Scotts reel mower at a flea market & the blades need sharpening (badly). How do i do this?
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This site shows you how to sharpen the Scotts Classic, or any other American Lawnmower / Great States reel mowers:
http://www.reelmowers.info
hello, I recently purchased a Craftsman Reel Mower,…didn’t see any info on this brand of reel mower on here, but it looks identical to these,…was wondering how they compared in quality,…(I only paid $71.99 for mine @ sears,…is that cheap? and if so is it bad that it was SO cheap?)
It’s working fine now,…but should I be worried about the longevity of it since it was so cheap?
(plus it came with no sharpening kit or anything,..they don’t even offer a sharpening kit on sears.com) Should i purchase a sharpening kit soon? and how often would be best to sharpen it?
THANKS
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As long as the Sears model number starts with a 291, then it was actually manufactured by the American Lawnmower Company / Great States, and either this sharpening kit or this sharpening kit will work on it.
You can typically go the first couple of years or so before you need to sharpen the mower the first time. And after that, you’ll probably sharpen yearly, or so.
my wife was given a great states model 415-16.no guide for it. it is set too high for cutting. a few of us can not figure out how to change the cutting height?
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I believe that if you look near the rollers in back, you’ll find three different holes where the rollers can go. You’ll need a wrench to adjust this mower, but you simply take off the nuts on either side, adjust it into a different hole, and then put the nuts back on. And then you’ll have adjusted the cutting height.
Hi. I have a Scott’s Classic and it worked great the first two seasons but this year it is not. It works fine periodically but then the blades will stop spinning for a bit, maybe a yard or two and then start again. I have tried adjusting the blades, and made it worse–no they spin about half the time and the rest of the time they don’t.
Any ideas?
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Sounds like it might be that the plastic gear inside the wheels that turns the blades might be worn out. If you contact the manufacturer at http://www.reelin.com, they will be able to get you any spare parts you might need to repair it. It is a simple repair that you should be able to easily do yourself, and they can also talk you through it.
Hi. I’m thinking of replacing my petrol mower with a push mower. Can you tell me if there is such a thing as a mulching push mower? I would be extremely interested in one of those …if they exist.
Looking forward to your reply.
Yours Trina
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A reel mower has five to seven blades, depending on the model. So it does an okay job of mulching. But no, there isn’t such thing as a mulching reel mower, and a reel mower will never mulch as finely as a power mulching mower. Even so, the clippings will typically disappear after a day or two. They do at my house, at least!
Hi! I inherited a Scott’s Classic that is in pretty good shape. The cutter bar is a little bit rusted, though, so I’d like to remove it and repaint it. I removed the cutter bar bolts on the end, but the cutter bar didn’t seem to come right out. I know there’s another piece in there (‘Cutter Bar Stud’) that may need to be removed, too? I wasn’t sure exactly how the cutter bar comes out and I didn’t want to bang or pry on anything, for fear of damaging the mower. Is there a technique to removing the bar or are the parts just a little bit frozen from age? Thanks!
I have a 16″ Scotts Reel mower I bought 2 years ago. The blades no longer turn when you push it. When I took it apart to see why, I discovered that the mechanism for turning the blades is a plastic interior pinion connects the blade drive shaft with the exterior wheels. The interior of the plastic pinion is now worn and it no longer catches the metal bump on the drive shaft. How can I get a replacement part?
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Contact the manufacturer of the mower, American Lawnmower Company. http://www.reelin.com They have replacement parts.
I HAVE A GREAT STATES REEL MOWER AND WOULD LIKE TO KNOW WHEN IT WAS MANUFACTURED AND ALSO THE MODEL#.
ROYAL PARK IS ON THE FACE OR THE MOWER.
IT APPEARS TO BE AT LEAST 20 YEARS OLD.
i WOULD LIKE TO GET A USER MANUAL TO SEE HOW TO SHARPEN THE BLADES AND ALSO TO SEE IF THE CUTTING HEIGHT CAN BE ADJUSTED.
THANKS,
BRYANT
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I am not an expert in antique mowers, but you can get more information about old mowers at the Antique and Vintage Lawnmower History site.
Hi,
I just picked up a used Scotts 2000-20.
I am curious about another blade adjustment method described by a grounds keeper. He said to adjust the cutter bed with two sheets of paper stacked on top of each other. When the bed is adjusted correctly it cuts one sheet and rubs (bt doesn’t cut) the other sheet. This sounds great, though I don’t know if I have the patience to do this. What are your thoughts?
I need to paint the mower. Is there a Rustoleum type paint that you know of with the same color? Can you provide the product code?
I noticed your point that not all the blades will get cut and not to get too excited about it. This is definately the case in my lawn. I was thinking that my mower might need back lapping. How do I determine when my blades need “sharpening”?
Thanks
Mike
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The adjustment method that the groundskeeper described should also work, but typically just get out a screwdriver, put the mower on the driveway, and start adjusting it until I get contact along the entire cutter bar, but where the blades are not so tight that it is really hard to push.
If the blades are too tight, it’s hard to push. If they are too loose, it won’t cut as well.
In most cases, you’ll find that the mower just needs adjusting, and not sharpening. Here is a good guide to sharpening a Scotts Classic.
I’m not sure about the paint color, unfortunately!
I have an American Mower Co. 7 blade reel mower. My wife bought it used. I’ve tried to adjust the cutting bar and think I have it right, but in grass that isn’t too tall but is fairly thick, the blades bind against the bar and the mower skids over top of the grass. I’m wondering if a 5 blade model would cut easier than a 7 blade model or if it just needs some sharpening.
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Have you tried raising the cutting height? That often helps with issues where the mower is binding up and skidding in thicker grass.
I noticed you have a Canadian email address, and typically, the seven bladed mowers are more appropriate for southern grasses like Bermuda and Zoysia. So it’s also possible that you might have better luck with a five bladed mower.
Hi there. Thanks for maintaining this site. I have two questions.
First, I own an American model 1815-18 and I think the blades need adjusting. But the instructions for adjusting blades seem to have disappeared from your site (I get a 404 when clicking on the link below). Has that information moved, or am I doing something wrong?
Here’s the currently dead link: reelmowerguide.com/scotts_classic_push_reel_mower.html
Second, there seem to be a lot of sharpening kits on the markets for these things, or at least there are a lot of prices. Do you know what the differences are between the one Clean Air Gardening sells and, say, this one (bit.ly/iMqFF) from Amazon or this one (bit.ly/PCz40) from American?
HI, I have a craftsman 18″ reel mover that I bought a little less than a year ago and I’m enjoying the no pollution cutting. I’m having a problem cutting through the grass seeding. I cut regularly, about every 3 days. I purchased it mid-season last year after the grass went to seed. I don’t know if this common or my mower needs adjustment? It seems to cut the regular grass OK(it does miss some of those too). Also, do you have fewer uncut blades with a mover with 6-7 blades than with a mower like mine that only has 4?
Thanks,
Dean
I just bought a used Scott’s 20″ on Craigslist. After tinkering with the adjustments I realized that the cutting bar is slightly bent upward in the middle. I confirmed it with a straight edge along the bottom of the cutting bar. Because of the bend I can’t adjust it to get a nice even cut along the full 20″. It will not cut on the outer 3″ of both sides. Is there a recommended way to straighten it out or slightly tweak it?
Thanks,
Phil
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That’s a tough one.
I haven’t ever tried to disassemble a cutter bar, so I’m not sure how hard it would be to replace it, or take it off and try to bend it straight again. Any replacement parts would need to come from the manufacturer, over at http://www.reelin.com.
You might just be out of luck on this one, where you have to accept that it just isn’t going to mow the full width and will take a lot more passes to get the job done.
I have a Sears Craftsman Quietcut reel mower that has been left outside under the eaves for a couple of years. We recently decided to go back to cutting our own lawn. The mower is a bit rusty but I managed to cut the lawn which was getting too tall to cut. Any tips on refurbishing and general maintenance of a reel mower? Will the sharpening kits listed here work on the Craftsman? I have no idea where our owner’s manual is at this point.
We are considering getting a corded electric mulching mower. I like the reel mower but I understand that a mulching mower can take care of leaves. I will still use the reel mower for parts of the lawn.
Great information here! I have an issue with an older (say 20 year old) Craftsman reel mower I am trying to sharpen the blades on. I have the ‘kit’ (ie valve grinding compound + crank) to do so but have a problem: I can’t figure out how to pull the wheel from this beast. In contrast to every other picture I can find on the web, this one has a wide (3″ or so) flat metal hubcap, held down by a flat rivet, and no visible way to pull this cover off. I can’t get a blade under it either, though it will shift slightly from side to side.
The model # is 291376400, so it was apparently made by American Lawn Mower. I can call their help line on Monday I guess…but how many people have questions for them on the weekend I wonder? The Craftsman manual for this model is not available online, and the closest ones seem to be similar in all but this one feature!
Okay, never mind that last question! I figured that there had to be a way to get the hubcap off, and there was. It was just very tight and a little rusted on. A screwdriver, and a 13 year old boy wielding a rubber mallet did the trick. The sharpening compound treatment seems to have made a difference, and I did some fiddling with the adjustments. I’m not sure it’s perfect across the full width of each blade as some may have dings or even little bends, but it seems to cut very well now.
Please direct me to a sharpener for the Brill Luxus 38. (The links you give in the Jay Littleton question do not indicate compatibility with the Luxus 38).
Thank you.
I have my dad’s old Scott push mower. I just measure it to be about 20″. I never wanted to get rid of it, but it needs the roller. Can someone tell me whre I could buy that part?
thank you,
Annette
I just purchased a used Great States 18 inch reel mower off craigslist. There is a small amount of rust on the blades. Is this anything to worry about of should the back lapping take care of that? I was also just wondering what sections should be greased? I want to get this in back into top shape.
Thanks
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A little bit of rust on the blades is normal, and nothing to worry about. Just mowing with it should knock most of it clean, if it is where the blades hit the cutter bar.
There isn’t really anything that needs to be greased. You can keep the blades lubricated. I usually recommend a silicone spray lubricant.
If you just check and make sure that the blades are adjusted properly, you should be good to go.
Hi, I just bought a Sears Craftsman reel mower at a rummage sale (The price was right) and I have a question about the machine. I believe the blades need to be sharpened and I’m not sure how to go about it. I read the post indicating that a kit can be purchased from American Lawnmower Comp if the serial # on the mower starts with 291. It looks like the number on mine starts with a 5 (The plate is pretty banged up) can this kit be adjusted to work on mine, or will I need to take it in somewhere?
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I have two options for you. 1. Check out http://www.reelin.com and see if your mower looks like any of the mower models that they have on their site. If it looks just like one of those, then American Lawnmower made it, and their sharpening kit will work. Otherwise, you could probably try this sharpening kit, which supposedly works with almost any type of reel mower.
I’m looking for a reel mower that has a long tall handle. It kills my back to mow hunched over. Do you know of any with handles designed for taller people to use?
Hi!
I need a pair of solid rubber tires to fit wheels that are 9″ dia. x 1-3/8″ wide. The tire outside diameter should be about 10″ and the width about 1-3/8″ wide. These are for a mower bought from Sears in 1951 but as far as I can see there is no manufacturer or model number on it. Can you recommend a seller? I’ve tried two local lawnmower shops without result and can’t find these tires on the internet (but I’ll continue to look).
I have an 18″ reel mower and would like to get the grass catcher attachment. Where can I get one? Thanks.
Gas mowers tend to toss up a lot of grass in a cloud – a nightmare for the allergic. Do reel mowers toss up less?
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Yes, absolutely.
In fact, someone wrote a testimonial about that very subject on this page:
http://www.cleanairgardening.com/testimonials.html
Brill Luxus 38
NO GRASS ALLERGIES! I can’t believe it. All my life I’ve dreaded mowing the lawn. I have a severe grass allergy. One of the first things I noticed about my new Brill mower is that I don’t get the allergy after effect. It makes sense. A traditional gas mower blows grass dust up in the air like a cloud. The entire time you mow your head is in the cloud. The Brill cuts differently and doesn’t create a cloud. Therefore, no allergies. I believe this is by far the best feature of the mower.
Jason V
I have a Scotts 2000-20 for the last two years – it works pretty well, except the handle is flimsy and now it is physically broken. Where can I purchase another handle?
Your help is appreciated as I don’t really want to throw it out if the handle can be replaced.
Thank you
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You can buy another handle from http://www.reelin.com. They don’t sell online, but they have an 800 number and a parts list on their site.
Thank you very much for your help — the price with shipping was nominal, $15 total and I will receive it next week. Best regards.
Hi, I just did a service on my Great States Lawn Mower and I was wondering if too much grease in the vicinity of the pawls would allow the pinion gears to skip and prevent the rotating blade from turning? I have tried installing the pawls in both directions and there is no change in this behavior, the rotating blades will not rotate whether I push forward or backwards. Or are the pinion gears showing that they are worn out? I was careful to not exchange the left side with the right side parts as I only had one side apart at a time. Looking forward to any clues you might have. Thanks!
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Yes, I think you’re on to something. Theoretically, a plastic pawl shouldn’t need any grease anyway. In my opinion, the grease just ends up attracting grass clippings up inside the wheel mechanism. So it could be too much grease.
However, those pawls can indeed wear out over time, because they are plastic. You can get replacement ones directly from the manufacturer at http://www.reelin.com. They have an 800 number listed on their site, as well as a parts list with pricing.
Yes, once I removed the grease from the shaft, pawl and inside of the pinions the rotating blade once again roatates!
Thank you!
But, I have another question.
I have adjusted the cutting bar position so that inserting a piece of newspaper on it and slowly rotating the blades causes the paper to be cut. I would assume this is the correct tension as if I back off the paper no longer cuts, it merely bends the newspaper. Now when I push the mower(Great States 5-blade) the cutting bar and rollers at the rear of the mower don’t stay flat on the ground. Is it correct for the cutting bar and roller assy to always be contacting the grass, ie. not hopping upwards as you push the mower? Do I need to readjust the cutting bar so that there is less tension to keep the assy grounded or is it something else that needs adjustment?
Thanks for any advise you might have on this.
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I’ve never had any luck using that newspaper test.
It sounds like you might have the blades too tight, which would make the mower harder to push, and could make the back end hop up like that.
I’d loosen up the blades so that you’re still getting contact along the cutter bar, but it’s much easier to push.
I usually just take my mower out in the yard with a screwdriver and keep adjusting it, cutting with it, adjusting and cutting until I get the best cut. It only takes 5 or 10 minutes.
Ok, I’ll give that a try…if it ever stops raining here!
Thank you for all your help.
I have a set of huffman reel mowers and i want to know where i can find some pinion gears for these.
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I don’t have any expertise in older reel mowers, unfortunately. So I would recommend trying here: http://users.crocker.com/~jricci/
hi and thank you for this forum!
i was looking at the new mascot 6-bladed reel lawn mower.
http://www.cleanairgardening.com/mascot-reel-mower.html
do you know how one would sharpen the blades of this one? i’ve seen that with some mowers you can just apply lapping compound to the blades and run the blades backwards. is it possible to use this sharpening technique for this mower?
thank you for considering my question! jeff
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You can get the Mascot professionally sharpened at a mower repair place that knows how to sharpen reel mowers.
I’ve heard that they’re working on a sharpening kit that specifically works with that mower, but I don’t think it will be available until 2010. But you wouldn’t need to sharpen for several years anyway, because most reel mowers can easily go a couple of years when you first get them — and longer when they are set with no blade to cutter bar contact.
that’s great to know. i’ll keep my eye out for the sharpening kit for that one. i wouldn’t be getting the mower until next year anyway. thank you!
Hi,
I have a Scott’s classic reel that has worker well for a couple of years on a small area of grass. This morning though, I went out to cut and the blade won’t turn at all. Is there a gear or something broken inside. Does the blade need to be adjusted? Help ASAP, I can’t afford a new mower!
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It could be that the cogs inside the wheels are worn out and need replacement. You can get replacement parts from http://www.reelin.com. They also have an 800 number listed on their site, and can probably help you troubleshoot over the phone to see which part that you might need.
What is th advantage of a 10 blade power reel mower over a 7 balde if any?
Many thanks for this site and all of the great info! I just bookmarked the website you recommended for replacement parts, http://www.reelin.com, and thought your readers might like to know they also have a section with downloadable product/owner’s manuals (in PDF format) at https://www.reelin.com/Manuals.aspx. I just downloaded the manual for my Great States 16″ reel mower as a backup for the printed one that came with the mower, and now I don’t have to dig out the paper one to find the instructions on adjusting the blades. The section also has a downloadable copy of the same manual that comes in the sharpening kit you mentioned above (http://www.cleanairgardening.com/reelmowshark.html).
I purchased a task force 20″ reel mower. It seems that it does not push smoothly – it stops – I don’t know if it is me, the lawn or the mower. I might need to adjust the height but not sure how to or I might need to have the blades sharpened – I’ve only used it once…help. Is there a manual somewhere on-line? Also, do reel mowers not work as well when the lawn is damp from morning dew? Thanks for the website…Toni
Does anyone know the weight of the new Fiskar’s Momentum Reel Mower?
We am looking for a reel mower that doesn’t need a lot of maintenance (such as sharpening), and can cut grass that is a mix including rye, and zoisa. We have an electric mower is 41 lbs and would like something lighter, as well as to ditch the electricity.
Is Brill just as good?
Thankyou
where’s the video of you mowing the 43 x 60 ft area mentioned at the end of this page:
http://www.reelmowerguide.com/scotts-classic-push-reel-mower-information/
and just above the mention of the video, it says “But someone sent me this terrific solution that really helps the catcher work better with the mower.” what solution??
No luck finding a manual, however the height adjust levers should be near the back small wheels. Cutting the lawn when it is wet can be a problem if grass is collecting near the cutting bar, so maybe wait a few hours while the grass dries out. As for adjusting, there should be a small nut on either side of the reel, near the cutting bar. Make small incremental adjustments, spin the blade and see if it makes contact. If it hits, back it off just a hair and you should be good. Make sure to make the same adjust on either side so to not off set the reel.
@bailey, Thanks for pointing that out. Looks like we screwed up the page with the last update. I fixed it, and the description that goes with those two photos of the catcher is now back on the page.
The Fiskar’s Momentum Reel Mower in the box weights 53 pounds. So out of the box it will be around 50 or so. The Brill Razorcut 38 will be the lightest model avaiable at 18 lbs. see more about the Brill here: http://www.reelmowerguide.com/brill-razorcut-premium-38-reel-lawnmower/
Hello! this is a great website by the way. I’ve been reading these posts and from what I gather this new fangled plastic pinion idea is not very well thought out. If a gear or a handle needs replaced after a few years what’s the point in buying a new one? I recently aquired an antique reel mower from a friend and am restoring it and painting it the colors I found on it-canary yellow and sea foam green. Can you say ’60′s style?
But I must say I’m quite dissapointed in these new mowers. Mine is all cast and has cast pinions. I think its amazing that manufacturers still manufacture reel mowers but they should go back to producing quality items made by americans and not these plastic japanese made hunks of junk that do nothing but make foreigners richer.
@steve, thank you so much. Just so I’m clear – there is a difference between height adjust levers and adjusting the blades – right?
I’m thinking of buying the Scott 20″ from Home Depot, but the employee there said that it would be too difficult to cut the thick St. Augustine grass here in south Florida. What are your thoughts?
I strongly suggest you look into the Mascot 6 bladed reel lawn mower. Its weight will allow the mower to sink down into the dense St. Augustine grass. This mower is perfect for all grasses especially Bermuda and St. Augustine grass.
Use the following link to learn more about this mower. There is a video at the bottom of the page as well.
http://www.cleanairgardening.com/mascot-reel-mower.html
Here’s a Technical Question for you, and I hope you’ve got an answer or know someone that can answer it for me. I am currently doing a total restoration on an antique Eclipse Reel
Mower, an old Arlington to be more exact, and need to find out how to remove the shaft that the blades are mounted to on the
left side of the unit. The right side has been removed, but the
left side is giving me fits. The right side had a square key that went through the shaft directly behind the gear, but the left side does’nt have this. Any ideas? Thanks alot and have a great day.
Alan,
We are not experts on antique mowers, but that this guy is:
http://users.crocker.com/~jricci/
He should be able to help you out.
Good luck!
@toni, hi,
I currently use a black & decker 12 amp electric mower with a power cord, and have found it is best to cut in the afternoon when the grass is dry. When I cut in the morning, the grass is soft and clumps like green cole slaw, but in the afternoon, it cuts nice and even, and the cut grass falls into the lawn. My electric is on the blink, so this season I will probably buy the Fiskar’s Momentum Reel mower.
Hope this helps
Maria
@steve, hello again,
I saw the Fiskar’s Momentum at Lowe’s, the box said 43 lbs. But the box itself was super heavy, more like the 53 lbs you stated. I did not buy it yet because it is still winter (March 15th), and Lowe’s has a 30 day return policy. I will probably buy it late March to use in April, and replace my dying B&D electric 12 amp mower (w/power cord).
I am going with the added weight after all, instead of the light weight Brill, because the lawn is uneven in spots, and the weight will keep it from bouncing and hopefully cut better. I noticed weight made a big difference in the Power Snow shovels, 14 lbs worked better than the lighter 8 lbs. Although the Fiskar’s Momentum is heavy, once it is out of the car, then out of the box (the hard part), it will be pushed around on wheels, and use plank to roll up the step to the shed. So that part should be ok.
Thanks again
Maria
Does anyone know about the Mascot Silent Cut 18?
It’s on the peoplepower web site and has a sharpening kit and grass catcher. but is the mower good and reliable?
thanks
maria
Thanks for your question.
The Mascot mower has been around for years and is a very reliable mower. It’s a heavier mower especially compared to the Brill Razorcut 38, at only 18 lbs. The Mascot mower works especially well with St. Augustine and Bermuda.
I spend a lot of time trying to make my lawn look perfect. From my readings I understand that the reel mowers provide a healthier cut, but also might leave some blades uncut. I am the type of person who will not wait until next time to clean those up. I have always used a rotary gas mower, but am considering going to a reel mower. My largest concern (by a huge margin) is having the best finished look. Can I expect a finished product that looks better than if I had used a gas powered rotary mower or will always be unhappy with the results from a reel mower.
I live in MO and have fescue lawn.
Thanks for your help!
@Matt,
I think that you might be unhappy with a reel mower. It’s possible to get a really good finished look like you’re describing, but it would be frustrating to keep going over spots more than once to get it that way.
Just to be clear, I mow my lawn with a reel mower, and no average person can tell the difference by looking at it after I’m finished.
But a serious lawn fanatic might.
I have a Silent Reel 16 that my brother gave to me when he moved back to Ohio from Florida. I never used it as I have a gas mower that now does not work and I do not want another one. I would like to use this one, but it sat outside and one of the handles rusted off and the blades are quite rusty and the paint is peeling as well. I was going to just throw it away until I went online to look for a new mower and found out how expensive they are! Glad I kept it and last night he suggested that I try to get replacement parts for it instead of buying a new one. I am going to call the company and see if I can get the parts, but is it worth it to do this or just purchase a new one? Thank you.
What a simple, informative site. Thank you. I bought a Scotts Elite 16 inch this week and was pleasantly surprised at how easy it was to assemble.
I’m having a hard time finding out what sort of per-use maintenance I need to do with a reel mower – should I rinse it off after each use?
I live in an area of my city where I’m sure that if I leave the mower outside for even 5 minutes, it’s going to disappear, so I’m going to need to bring it inside to the basement each time. I plan on just standing it up in the box it came in (so nothing is touching the cement basement floor.) Any special concerns about storing it inside?
Again, thanks.
Which is the best manual reel mower for a combination of st.augustine and bermuda? mostly bermuda in some places, mostly st. augustine in others.
@BAILEY,
I am using the Mascot on my St Augustine lawn, and it’s the best thing I’ve used on St Augustine and Bermuda so far.
http://www.cleanairgardening.com/mascot-reel-mower.html
I’m also enthusiastic about the new Fiskars mower, which is also a heavy mower (which tends to plow through thicker grasses easier). I’m waiting for my St Augustine to come out of winter dormancy to test it.
http://www.cleanairgardening.com/fiskars-momentum-reel-mower.html
I’ve had a Scott’s 20″ (4 wheel design) reel mower for 2 summers and I’m looking to replace it.
It works OK, but rattles and shimmies like a 74 Plymouth Duster and I’m looking to upgrade.
I live in southern Maine and mow approx. 6000 sq ft. turf area.
My lawn is comprised of mostly Tall Fescue (with a little Ryegrass, Clover, and Blue Grass).
I typically mow around 2.5″ height every 4-8 days depending on rainfall & season.
I am more concerned about durability than weight.
What model would you recommend?
Thank you!
Hi, This isn’t a question, Just a comment.
We bought a Mascot 18″ LW Silent Cut Reel Mower from peoplepoweredmachines.com . Our choice was limited because we have a mix of Zoysia/fescue/ rye, an uneven lawn, plus we wanted the grass about 2 1/2 inches tall. We eventually narrowed the choice between the Mascot and Fiskar’s Momentum. Both are heavy enough for an uneven lawn, and both stated they could cut southern grasses like zoisia. Mascot has 6 blades. The Fiskars is available at Lowe’s, and can be seen in person there. We decided against the Fiskar’s because it uses a flywheel much like a bicycle chain, which requires 2 wrenches to put it back on should it fall off while mowing. We found this out from reading the users manual. There is just too much
maintenance in the manual, even though it is supposed to not require sharpening. The other concern is that grass would get stuck in the chain. We had a B&D electric mower for 4 seasons, that burned out because grass got into the motor, somehow getting through the plastic housing. So we eventually purchased the Mascot model 45-01931-LW which has far less machinery. It does need sharpening every 2 years, which can be done via their sharpening kit.
We like the mower. It was a good choice, but at 42 lbs it is much harder to push than the electric at 41 lbs. So for us it is a good weight bearing aerobic workout. Hopefully, we will get in shape. I do notice that it is easier to cut if you walk at a rapid speed rather than a stroll. The only negative, is it cuts 18″ but is 26″ wide, so close edges still need the electric weed whacker.
We do overlap the rows, quite a bit, and end up with a nice even cut. As for mowing like a vacuum cleaner vs going the full length of the lawn, it is easier to go the full length to use the momentum of un-interrupted speed. You never gain speed going back and forth. This mower only mows forward, so pulling backwards is a waste. We have used it every week since the last week of March, and practice does make perfect. We like it.
hope this helps.
maria (ps the Mascots sounds really cool, like scissors slicing & very quiet)
I am trying to find a new pinion gear(s) for my old Craftsman mower serial number 536 91660. Sears can not tell me who manufactured this mower though they can tell me the pinion gears are no longer made by the manufacturer – it only about 20-25 years old. I’d love to buy two ten dollar parts and have it last another twenty years instead of consigning it to the scrap heap – Any ideas?
Thanks for all the great info!
Bil
I am very curious why most of reel mowers have 5 blades? what the advantage of 5 blades compare to 4 or 6 blades?
@Howie,
The new Fiskars mower may be a good choice for you. http://www.cleanairgardening.com/fiskars-momentum-reel-mower.html
It has a wide cutting path and one of the highest cutting choices available.
It’s a little on the heavy side so another choice would be the Razorcut 38, which is one of the lightest mowers available however the cutting height is just under 2 inches.
http://www.cleanairgardening.com/brill-razorcut-38-reel-mower.html
Both are great mowers.
@bil,
Try this fellow, he knows about older mowers and should be able to direct you correctly.
http://users.crocker.com/~jricci/
He should be able to help you out.
Good luck!
@betty, The number of blades has to do with how finely the grass is cut. You might get a better cut however more blades equal more friction which results in the mower being harder to push. Over the years 5 blades have become the standard offering a great cut while not making the mower overly difficult to push.
@betty,
Hi Betty,
My mower has six blades to cut hard-to-cut-grasses like zoisa and southern grasses. There is a mower with 7 blades just for these grasses, but does not cut regular rye grass very well. You might want to read my verbose comment above posted 4/14 titled Maria.
Hope this helps
Maria
Hi – an 18″ Craftsman is asking (squeaking) for oil or grease inside the wheel housing. There doesn’t seem to be a spot to lubricate. Is taking the wheel off the way to do it?
My neighbor just tossed out an old Eclipse reel mower. It just need some new tires and a little tlc but it looks to be in good shape. The tires I pulled off of it say Goodyear 10.00 x 1.75 and have internal grooves inside the tire to fit on the hub.I don’t think regular store bought tires would work on it. Where can I find these tires?
@Zach Schneider,
This gentleman is the expert on antique reel mowers. I don’t have any experience with them, unfortunately, so I don’t think I can help.
http://users.crocker.com/~jricci/
@tom,
It’s usually pretty easy to remove the wheel and put it back on, so I would recommend lubricating it that way. There is often a little hubcap kind of area that you can pop off with a screwdriver, and then see how to remove the wheel itself.
Hi,
First thank you for this web site, and very useful info.
Just what in blue blazes is a “PAWL”?
I saw the picture in my users manual,(Mascot Silent Cut 18″ LW) and someone talked about it above in this site.
It seems like it is super critical tiny little piece, of which there are 2, one on each side. I even looked it up in the dictionary, Merriam-Webster’s on-line, I almost sort of understand it.
Can you explain a PAWL?
Thanks
Maria
@maria,
In this case, the pawl means the gear inside the wheel that makes the the blades turn when the wheels turn. The inside of a reel mower wheel typically has gears, kind of like a clock.
And then the pawl is a smaller gear that fits into the gears inside the wheel, and turn the blades when the mower pushes forward.
i have a vintage craftsman reel mower. it is probably 30 years old and still cuts great but the rubber roller is missing so i can’t adjust the height. any recommendations as to where i can purchase a rubber roller? it is made by Yard Man and called Silent Yard Man.
thanks
@Darryl,
Use this link and ask if they can help you. He is an expert on the older models.
http://users.crocker.com/~jricci/
I have a Scotts Elite Reel Mower and I tried to adjust the height, thought the wheels had to come off and change the position of the holes to adjust. It has three holes on wheels. I did this and put tires back on now the blades will not move when I go/push forward, but will a little when go backwards??? Help!
@Angela,
It sounds like you need to adjust the blades, however you may want to call the manufacturer, American Lawn Mower.
1-800-633-1501
Steve
@jeff hudson,
Those sharpening kits are available now!
http://www.reelmowersetc.com/sharpen_reel_mowers.htm
Questions? Call me 888 384-1033
Does any body know of a fix for the pinion/drive pawl issue with the Sunlawn MM2? Mine lasted barely the season before the wheels start skipping. Very disappointing
I have Bermudagrass, which I like to keep at 1″ or a bit lower. I know that 7-blade reel mowers are generally recommended for such bentgrass lawns, but is a 7-blade harder or easier to push than a typical 5-blade model (all else being equal)?
@Trey, Yes, a 7 blade will cut better and in our experience only marginally any different to push. I think you will be much happier with the cutting results.
I have a scotts classic reel mower and the handle came off. C an I purchase replacement “C” rings or substitute something else to re-attatch the handle to the mower?
@Deborah
1. If your handle is coming off, you want to grab the bottom of it like a wishbone and kind of stretch it out so that it opens wider. If you do that it won’t come off, even without the C ring.
2. You can pick up those rings at any local hardware store. I’m not sure exactly what the size is, but it should be in your owner’s manual. Or you can contact http://www.reelin.com and they’ll tell you.
I found my grandfathers reel mower and was wondering if anyone had any information on kwik kut reel mowers.Any info you can send me would be helpful.
@Kenny Ollom,
Use this link and ask if they can help you. He is an expert on the older models.
http://users.crocker.com/~jricci/
I have a Great States reel mower Model 815-18. My question is how do i go about adjusting the cutter bar and height adjustment? Right now it won’t cut anything and i would really want to know how to fix these problems and if you would know of a site that i could download pictures and instructions related to this mower. Thank You
we bought at a flea market a old reel mower. It cuts grass. It in very good condition. We wanted to know how you sharppen the blades? On the front stamped in the wood handle great states
sherpersvillie,Indiana. We wanted to know if any one knew the
age of this?
@Kevin,
Use this link and ask if they can help you. He is an expert on the older models.
http://users.crocker.com/~jricci/
@Mike,
Here is a link to Great States manuals. If it is not listed, give them a call and they should be able to email you a manual.
https://www.reelin.com/Manuals.aspx
Where can I get a replacement 24 Volt Lithium Ion battery for a Brill RazorCut lawn mower?
@Derek Wright,
Unfortunately the Lithium Ion battery has not received US approval yet and is only available in Europe. The manufacturer has not given indication when approval will be made. The most inexpensive way to replace the battery is to take it to a battery store and have the internal “c” size rechargeable batteries replaced.
One more time. I hope this goes through now!
My son found an old “FIRESTONE SIMPLEX” with a patent number “2″ on it. It has the T bar handle and a bar (I suppose it flattens the grass as you walk?). I know Simplex is the company that made them for Firestone, other than that I know nothing about it. My son has used it to cut the grass, and it works great even after all these years.
My questions are how old is this reel push mower? How do you find the Patent information on it? How do you sharpen and change the cut of grass length if you even can? And finally, is it an item we should hang on to?
He also found a ‘PHILLIPS 66″ gasoline can white with painted red lettering, at least 10 gallons and very dirty/greasy with dents. I know some people collect these items and just wanted to know a ball park figure on the price of these two items.
Thank you so much!!
Sissy
@Sissy,
Use this link and ask if they can help you. He is an expert on the older models.
http://users.crocker.com/~jricci/
Greetings:
I am trying to figure how to adjust an American Mower Co. Reel mower. There are 4 screws on top of the blade guard but they do not appear to move, ( maybe old age has them tight). The setting is too low for my lawn and the grass chokes the blades to a stop.
Anyone know how to adjust the blade height?
Thanks
D
@Donna
Those four screws adjust the way that the blades scrape against the cutter bar, and are not used to adjust the cutting height. So I would leave those alone for now.
To adjust the cutting height, it depends on which model you own.
Here are where you can find the manuals for each model of American Lawnmower reel mowers.
https://www.reelin.com/Manuals.aspx
If you aren’t sure which model, look here to see which one it looks like:
https://www.reelin.com/ProductLine.aspx
I am just finishing my 2nd summer using a Scotts Classic Reel lawn mower and have been very satisfied with it to date. For some reason the large wheels have locked going forward but not backwards. Not sure what I did to result in this condition but I can’t figure out how to unlock them. Help!
@Charles Reubens, It sounds like something is stuck in the gear which is inside the wheel. Take the wheel off and see whats inside.
I live in the Chihuahuan Desert of the Big Bend of Texas. We made the mistake, a few years back, of putting horse manure around what few trees we have. Because of grass seeds in the poo, the grass goes crazy all around our home during the rainy season. It is thick, tall and tough; the terrain is uneven, to say the least. We have killed several really good weedeaters after only a few uses. I am looking for a Christmas present (of a reel mower) for both my husband – and me. It has to be tough, as wide as possible and with very few plastic or rubber parts as the summer temps down here can be 118 for months at a time. Plus, we don’t buy anything but Made in America whenever possible.
I remember my granddaddy had a reel mower that “lived” in the yard. Every few days, a family member (any of us) would just go push it around for a few minutes. I grew up thinking it was yard art, but realizing now how brilliant those mowers are.
Please give me names of the best brands to research.
Thanks
C B
@C B,
First, keep in mind, unless you mow regularly, using a reel mower, you will have problems with any reel mower you choose. Reel mowers do not work well with over grown grass and tall weeds.
Second, to my knowledge there are no longer any reel mowers made in the US.
Finally, I suggest one of these two reel mowers. I have included links to both. They are both heavy duty and well built.
http://www.cleanairgardening.com/fiskars-momentum-reel-mower.html
http://www.cleanairgardening.com/mascot-reel-mower.html
I picked up 2 older reel push mowers one is a eclipse model m and the other is a wonder. The wonder has steel wheels no rubber on the wheels. Does anyone have any ides as to the age of either of these reel mowers????
@Dale,
This guy is an expert on the older models.
http://users.crocker.com/~jricci/
Hi,
I’ve got an old reel mower that my grandfather use to mow with back in the 30′s (?). It is all metal, except for the T-handle (wood) and the old rubber covered tire rims (not tires like nowadays – just rims with a rubber cover).
It works fine, but I can’t push it to mow with, and will probably try to sell in it a garage sale. Is it worth keeping? If not, how much is it worth as an antique?
Thanks
I’ve been using reel mowers for years, but now for the first time, I have the opportunity to change my grass. What is the best grass for use with a reel mower? Obviously something that doesn’t grow too fast would be good, but it would be nice to find something that grew straighter. Any thoughts, suggestions? Thanks!
@Tom, Unfortunately not knowing the area you are in affects my suggestions. However I can suggest going to your local county extension office, they should be able to suggest the best grass type for your area. Picking a grass only on the basis of what a reel mower cuts best may not be the way to go, you may want to factor in the climate you live in.
@Sandy, This guy is an expert on the older models, he may be able to put a value on it.
http://users.crocker.com/~jricci/
I recently inherited my BRILL 380 ASM (under the mantis name) somewhere a long the way, the battery charger was lost, I am not having an easy time finding a replacement charger. Can you be of any assistance?
I am interested in purchasing a reel mower but am wondering how it will do on a hilly surface. My front hard is pretty steep and I am fearful of using a motorized mower on it and thought the reel would be a solution.
@Denise, Pushing on a slope will not be much different pushing a reel mower as with a gas rotary, typically if it can be done with a push gas rotary mower it can be done with a reel mower. Just keep in mind two things. One, you are the motor with the reel mower, so if you had a powered mower it will be a little different with a reel mower. Secondly, if you let the grass grow long typically the reel mower will not cut it. Reel mowers give their best results when the lawn is mowed regularly.
@carm, Try calling Cleanairgardening.com they may have one. Also keep in mind, the battery on those mowers don’t have a great history so if it is bad you may want to take it into a battery store and have the rechargeable “c” batteries replaced. You will need to crack it open to get to the batteries.
My lawn consists of perennial peanuts and is less than 1,000 square feet. It may get larger but not more than 3,000 square feet. My electric weed whacker will not cut the shoots and stems. Would you recommend a reel mower?
@Dennis Lunney, No, I would not, I think an electric mower would be your best bet.
I recently found what appears to be a 50′s or early 60′s Scotts Deluxe reel mower. I am looking to identify it’s age as well as hopefully come up with any info I can find regarding care and maintenance. The unit is gold in color with flat white bars connecting the handle to the mower itself. The model number is “10M5″. What interested me the most is when I began to clean off dirt and found that it was made by “O M Scott and Sons in Marysville, OH. Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated.
@Chris Kaisler,
This guy is an expert on the older models, he may be able to help you out.
http://users.crocker.com/~jricci/
I have an old Craftsman “100″/Silent Yard-man mower. Serial # 123-8165. It belonged to my grandmother and I used to use it as a kid to mow lawns in the neighborhood for extra money. I have had it in my garage for over 16 years since her passing and just cant seem to make myself get rid of it. It still works but can use some tlc, it’s missing the wooden t-handle. I was wondering how old it is and where I could find replacement parts for it. I am interested in restoring it. Thank you very much.
@Jason Aldrich, This guy is an expert on the older models, he may be able to help you out.
http://users.crocker.com/~jricci/
Anyone with experience with both the Fiskars Momentum and a McLane manual push reel mower? Seems like they’re both designed the same way with a flywheel and chain. Also, the biggest problem with a push reel mower is going through dense grass like hybrid bermuda. How do either one of these mowers perform against dense bermuda? Thoughts?
I would like to know what a self propelled motorized reel mower might be worth?Runs excellent and operating parts are in working order. Made by Savage Arms Co.
@Melissas D, This guy is an expert on the older models, he may be able to help you out.
http://users.crocker.com/~jricci/
@Nick, Our experience with the Fiskars Momentum has only been positive. Any mower, including a gas powered mower, is going to bog down in thicker/dense grass. The best way to deal with it is to mow more often.
Morning,
I purchased the Mantis Reel Mower a mere 3 years ago. I contacted them to purchase a new battery and they stated they stopped making and supporting the mower. Now I’m stuck with an expensive push mower and this is no bueno.
I cannot find a battery anywhere. Do you have an in to where the super secret Mantis battery stock is hiding?
It’s these dimensions:
Battery
Battery 20 x 1.2 V NiCd
Voltage/Capacity 24 V / 2.0 Ah
Weight approx. 1.4 kg
Number of possible charges approx. 1,000 times
I can tell you assuredly, I have not recharged it 1000 times. Maybe 100.
Thanks!
Christine
@Christine, I believe the mower you have may be a Brill Elec that was private labeled with the mantis name. Try looking on ebay, I think there was someone selling new ones, also just do a search on google.
I’m going to buy a reel mower. After living the last 7 years without a yard I’m moving and can’t wait to get back into gardening. It’s a peaceful home on the coast of Oregon and I want to add to that experience with a quiet mower. I could use the exercise too.
Does the Brill 38 have hard plastic or soft rubber wheels? I’ve read the handle design is flawed and it frequently comes loose where it attaches the handle fork to the mower unit. Has that issue been addressed?
Thanks
I have a old reel mower that has printed on each wheel the words Great States STD. It is blue and yellow and has Ohio Special on the side of it. It also says ball bearings-self adjusting. Inside both steel wheels it says made in USA. The # on the bottom plate is U5 18. It has wooden handles at the top but is all metal except for the rear roller wheel which is plastic. Its been hanging in a garage for over 50 years and is in great condition and i am trying to find an estimated value. Can anyone help me please? Thanks debe
@debe, This guy is an expert on the older models, he may be able to place a value on it. http://users.crocker.com/~jricci/
@Scott, The Brill Razorcut 38 would be a great choice and it’s very popular in your area. The handle issue is due to it being installed incorrectly. When installed correctly it will not easily come off.
@steve, Thanks Steve. I love this website.
I have a Ward’s number 5 reel mower. Idon’t know anything about it but would like to find out when it was made. The mower looks very old and did not come with rubber tires(steel treaded tires).It is in really good condition and still works. I appreciate any help or leads to find out about this mower.
Does anybody have information on a Scotts Silent. 16″ cut reel lanwmower? How much should it cost? Pictures? Anything?
@Howard, Typically the Scotts 16″ costs $99 and is only sold at big box stores. Sorry no pictures available that I know of.
@Gregory, This guy is an expert on the older models, he may be able to give you additional info: http://users.crocker.com/~jricci/
Where can I get parts for a Scotts 10M5 reel mower? I broke the bolt that attaches the roller to the frame. Help much appreciated! I love my mower!
I’ve got a Brill reel mower and I need a new battery. Do you know where I can get one?
@Steve, I believe someone on ebay has new ones for sell, I would start there. Then do a search on google.
@Frank, Contact the manufacturer at http://www.reelin.com
I recently purchased a Montgomery Wards Garden Mark 18″ reel mower model number ZYJ-193A. The mower runs great and all the parts are there except the belt. The part number for the belt is 1651-20. I believe it is 1/2″ x 18″. I would also like to get new tires for it. That part number is 2619-32. I don’t know who manufactured this mower for Wards. My guess is Gilson. I believe it was made in 1966 based on the Briggs engine number. Any help finding these parts is greatly appreciated. Can’t wait to mow with this classic!
So Im looking to buy a reel mower, I was thinking about buying one for my busuness. My aunt and I are looking for something cheep and easy to manuver around sence we are only kids we need the mower to be smaller in some form. My question is every thing. How do you use it? Does it need any specail care? How much does a regular one cost? I would very much apperciate if you answered any of these questions, Thank you.
@Savannah Brooks, A reel mower is easy to use, you simply push it much like you push a standard mower. The ease of use will depend on the type of grass, thickness of grass, and if the grass is overgrown or not. No, special care is not needed. Simple wash it off every now and then lubricate it with silicone lubricant. A reel mower cost anywhere from 89.99 to 199.99. I suggest this reel mower: http://www.cleanairgardening.com/scotclasreel.html
@Chris, This guy is an expert on the older models, he may be able to direct you: http://users.crocker.com/~jricci/
Do you know what kind of lapping compound is needed to sharpen the reel mower blades? I bought one of those do-it- yourself sharpening kits (worked well), but now I am out of the compound. Can I get it at Lowes or Home Depot?
I have a 13 year old LL Bean reel mower with worn pinion gears. Bean no longer makes – or brands – reel mowers, and I don’t know what make of mower best matches it to try to replace the gears – nor can I find any place that has a photographic selection to try to match by eye. I wish I had more specificity, but I can’t find a model number on the machine itself.
I’m interested in purchasing a reel mower and have been for years but I’ll have to do some convincing on my husband’s part. One thing that I’ve been wondering is whether reel mowers are safer around small children. Do you know anything about this?
@Sharon, Yes, they’re much safer around small children, however you should not allow a child to play with the reel mower itself. The reel may spin if they place their hand on it and cut them. My wife use to cut our lawn while our small children played on the lawn. Something we would not do with a motorized rotary mower. A rotary mower can easily shoot out a projectile while mowing and hurt a child; this is far less likely to happen with a reel mower.
@Noam Izenberg, This guy is an expert on the older models and might have an idea how to fix this one even though it’s not considered an antique.
http://users.crocker.com/~jricci/
@Ralph, Here is a link to buy the sharpening compound. I do not think hardware stores carry just the compound. http://www.reelmowersetc.com/reel_mower_sharpening_compound.htm
I have a reel mower, when I cut longer grass the grass rolls over the blades and will not go into the grass catcher, it dumps the grass in front of the mower. Am I doing something wrong?
Where can I get replacement plastic drive gears for a Scott 20 inch reel push mower? Both are worn and the blades won’t turn.
I have a GW Davis 16 in push reel mower Model 61.
How do I find out how old it is?
thanks
david
@David, This guy is an expert on the older models, he may be able to direct you: http://users.crocker.com/~jricci/
@Kevin donohoe, Try the web site http://www.reelin.com, they should be able to sell you the parts you need.
@NH AL, Yes, you need to cut the lawn more often, do not let it grow so high.
I have a half acre lot and I am interested in a push reel mower. The Fiskars mower seems like a good choice, but I want a wider mower. I know that the Scotts Classic is 20″ wide. Is there any manufacturer that makes a wider push mower than 20″, like 24 inches or so? I have used only briefly used a push reel mower, and it seemed pretty easy to push. I can’t imagine that a 24″ mower would be impractical.
@Matthew, One of the widest is the Mascot 21″, here is a link to it: http://www.cleanairgardening.com/mascot-21-reel-mower.html
I was under the impression that it’d be better to get a heavy model, as that will, well, hold the mower down, and ensure it cuts consistently. But I’m reading about the Brill (and others) where they mention how lightweight they are as a selling point.
Can you help me get a sense of how to think about weight when purchasing a reel mower? I’d rather have it heavy, somewhat inconvenient, and effective, instead of lightweight and easy to get to and form the lawn it doesn’t mow well.
Thanks for all the info your site! Very helpful.
@Kris, Typically a heavier mower means it takes more muscle to push, and it’s usually necessary to have a heavier mower on thicker more dense grass, like Bermuda and St. Augustine. A heavier mower allows the reel to get down into the thicker more dense grass and cut it. A lighter mower like the Brill tends to float over the heavier/dense grass and therefore will not cut. If you have either of those grasses go with a heavier mower, otherwise a lighter mower like the Brill is your best choice.
What type of oil do I use to keep my reel mower operating smoothly?
@Vickie, A spray silicon lubricant is likely your best bet for lubricating your reel lawn mower.
I have a reading Model-E reel mower. I am quite sure it is older than me. Can I still find tires fore it? It still works well, but the tires are shot. I would like very much to use it and don’t really have the money to spend on a new one. Thank you
@Nathan, Try the web site http://www.reelin.com, they should be able to sell you the parts or direct you on how to obtain them.
Thank you very much. I will contact them and see what I can get.
I have been reading up on these reel mowers and found your website and found it full of info.
My electric mower just bit the dust after a season or two and I am interested in the reel lawnmower because of the no cord or vibrations. I live in Tulsa, OK with a lawn that is a mixture of who knows what – including dandilions. I want to try a mower to see if it will handle the mess I have. Any suggestions? Or should I stick with the electric?
Thanks.
@Janet, If your lawn is mainly grass, no matter what the kind, a reel mower will work. However if you have a majority of weeds I suggest you stick with an electric mower. Reel mowers work best on well manicured lawns that are mowed regularly. Here is a good all around reel mower for most all grass types: http://www.cleanairgardening.com/fiskars-momentum-reel-mower.html
What about mowing wet grass with a reel mower? I am borrowing a neighbor’s because my gas-powered rotary mower bit the dust. Two weeks in the repair shop! Trying out her mower so I can decide if I want to get one rather than paying to repair the gas-powered one, but the grass is wet! Now what?
i have a american reel mower and would like to know how you sharpen the blades, if someone could help me find that info or tell me it would be greatly appreciated
@james, Try this sharpening kit, you can cut it down to fit just about any size. http://www.cleanairgardening.com/prison-reel-sharpener.html
If your mower is 18 inches, get the version for the Scotts and cut it down to 18 inches. A hack saw will cut this down in seconds.
@ J.C. Wait for the grass to dry.
Hi,
I have a reel mower that is brand new that only cuts on one side. is there anything i can do at home to alleviate this problem?
I recently got a reel mower that is pretty old. The wooden handle is worn down a whole bunch and I should replace it. I want to find out when it was made and just more about it in general. It is an old Sears Robuck & Co. ‘Yard Man’ mower. The model number 123.81730. I cant find any info out there on it. It works perfectly and only needs a blade adjustment. I would think that due to its age, the blades are rpobably a harder steel and that there are no plastic parts. It would be nice to know how to take care of it. I would love to restore it back to the original bright orange color as well. Anyway, if there are any links (that work) I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks
I have a Rally brand 16″ older reel mower that I bought at home depot about 10 years ago. I need to get a replacement part- its a plastic nut type part that attaches to a bolt that is surrounded by a spring. When you turn the nut, it adjusts the distance between the blade and the blade cylinder.
Any idea where I could get a replacement part?
@Howard, Have you tried the store you bought it from?
@Jeff, This guy is an expert on the older models, he may be able to direct you: http://users.crocker.com/~jricci/
@Joyce, Check the reel and cutting bar, it likely needs to be adjusted. The manual should tell you how to adjust the reel.
Where can I buy a 16″ wood roller for my old reel mower?
@Jack, This guy is an expert on the older models, he may be able to direct you: http://users.crocker.com/~jricci/
I am a short female and old to boot. I am looking for a light weight and mantainance free as possible. Do they have no -sharpen blades?
Elaine, If you keep up with mowing, i.e. not letting the grass get overgrown, a push mower is not much more difficult to push than a 80 lb gas rotary style mower. As for the reel, several reel type mowers have flame hardened blades which do not need to be sharpened for 5 to 10 years or more depending on use. If you have a small lawn free of twigs, leaves and small rocks the Razorcut 38 can go 10 years without needing to be sharpened. When it finally does we have an easy to use sharpening kit.
Here is a link to one: http://www.cleanairgardening.com/brill-razorcut-38-reel-mower.html or this slightly smaller version, called the Razorcut 33 http://www.cleanairgardening.com/brill-razorcut-33-reel-mower.html
After using a Scotts Classic for the past several years on my southern Bermuda, I decided to trade up to either a Fiskars or Mascot. I chose the Mascot, and it arrived a few days ago.
Everything is set up with this mower, as an engineer I appreciate the construction and simplicity, but I need some guidance on setting the blades for this mower. I’ve heard of different guidelines for setting the blades, but would like your input.
Setting the blade so that I can just barely hear metal-on-metal contact, then backing off till I hear silence doesn’t work; the cut looks worse than my Scotts! Setting the blade so that it cuts a piece of paper on both left and right sides results in a horrible metallic rattle in the center that I KNOW isn’t right. But I’ve found that setting the blade such that it sounds like a heavy pair of scissors working seems to do the trick and give a nice cut, but this isn’t the “non-contact” I was expecting.
Am I working on a mower with an out-of-tolerance blade, that needs warranty work, or is the scissor sound the sweet spot? Is there a best method for adjusting this machine?
Thanks
@SGS, You should get a good cut when you back it off just a hair from when they have touched. I suggest adjusting it so that there is the slightest contact and then work through it, after a few uses it should be backed off the slightest amount from usage which I doubt you can do by hand.
I know that height was addressed in another article. however, i have inherited a very bare yard when i bought the house i just moved into. with the 100+ temps and the drought here in texas. the grass is too sparse to support new growth. for sake of brevity, ill say that i do not have a water of soil issue. every time i get new runners out into the bare spots, they get burned up. i let an area of my yard grow very high, and it FLOURISHED! sadly, my mower will only cut 3.5-4″ high. if i had one that would cut 6″, then my grass could really thicken up and spread. do you know of a reel mower that will cut that high, or even 5″. i can not find one.
Jesse, Sorry but as far as we know a reel mower that cuts 6 inches does not exist.
I have discovered by trial and error that you can indeed cut those pesky dandelions and other tall or speading weeds. The problem is that the rotating blades push the weed down until it slides under the stationary blade. The solution is to circle over the lil bugger in a counter-clockwise direction. It lays the weed down and then chops it off low so that it is now under control. Be persistent, if you have alot of weeds it is fairly time consuming; but the victory is sweet!
@Jon
Thanks for the tip!
I have a self-propelled McClane 20″ walk behind reel mower. Love it.
The chain that turns the blades is loose and falls off the sprocket. How can I increase the tension?
The chain that propels the mower is also loose – do you know how I can increase that tension?
Thanks,
Steve
I have a Sears 16 manual push mower (not antique), that my dad used as a decoration on the front lawn. The mower has been painted and it is rusted. My question…is it possible to restore this mower? I would really love to use it again. Besides going green, I think it would be great exercise! Or should I toss it and just invest in a new one? If you need a pic, I can provide one. Thank you in advance for you help!
I moved into my home in December and this is my first lawn in 20 years. 6-7,000 sq feet Northern fescue/blue/rye. I started the season with a CEL Powermow combination electric/manual 4 blade 16 inch. The mower is OK and I use it manually when grass is short and with the motor after rainy days and Mondays get me down. But I’m now looking for a better quality reel. I’m a 60 year old male, out of shape, but not weak. I don’t mind pushing the 27 lb (without the battery…35 lbs with it) CEL, but I do get winded and usually do 30 minute cardio bites, rest and do some more. And the 4 blade CEL does have to be muscled through some of the ticker areas. I’ve bounced back and forth between the Brill 38, the Fiskars, and the Mascot 18 for tall grasses. The Brill just seems too light, too short of a cut, too narrow, the Fiskars too plastic, too heavy and too hyped, and the Mascot too heavy but solid. I have almost settled on the Mascot, but the 40 lb weight is holding me back. Would you suggest the Mascot for a person like me…or should I go with the tiny Brill or the newfangled Fiskars.
I just bought a Scott’s 14″ Manual Reel Mower. It came assembled except for the handle. The handl is now on correctly but the wheels lock when I attempt to push it forward. Is there a way to unlock the wheels or is this a defective mower?
I have a Brill Luxus 38 that is 7 seasons old and needs a new reel and bar. The manual indicates this is a shop job. Are there instructions and parts somewhere? Is this something I can do myself, or is there perhaps someplace to send it?
Also, will it be so expensive that I am better off getting a new mower? Thank you!
Gary, Yes it can be rebuilt but the cost is close to getting a new one. As for doing it yourself, it is tricky, the tools needed are not standard since it German engineered.
@Andy,The wheels should not have any type of lock, so it sounds like a defective mower.
@Allan, How about the Scotts Classic?
@Teresa, Yes it can be restored but since its an older model it will be far less user friendly to use than the new models from the past 10 to 15 years. I suggest a new one.
@Steve, There should be a tension bar or tension adjustment screw, if not and its really loose, try removing a link.
Hi. I recently got an older mower. The wheels say “Grass Goomer.”
I’d like to adjust the distance between the moving blades and the stationary blade.
The stationary blade has a series of screws running across its length. Is this where the adjustment is made?
Thanks
Hello,
I found an old Sears Craftsman 18″ reel mower at the end of a neighbors driveway and took it home. I tried it immediately and found the old rusty thing cut better that my expensive new fangled Brill 16″. I was so excited that I purchased a sharpening kit and sharpened it, getting it to cut even better, not perfect, but I believe I can get there. A few questions:
1) How do I get my hands on a user’s manual for this old mower (Sears Craftsman Model 536 81293). I can guess how to adjust it but would prefer to see how Sears recommends how to do it.
2) This mower has a “bridge” with an adjusting bolt that puts pressure on the cutter bar at the middle of the span. I am guessing that it helps to keep the cutter bar closer to the spinning blades since the middle may deflect more when loaded with the cutting action of the grass. Is that what it is for?
3) When was this mower made?
Thanks so much and I like your site
@Douglas V. This guy is an expert on the older models, he may be able to direct you: http://users.crocker.com/~jricci/
@Brooke, Sorry but I am not an expert on these older models, take a look at this site, he may be able to direct you: http://users.crocker.com/~jricci/
We are considering one or two reel mowers for our children to use. They can each push our self-propelled Lawn Boy. They are 7 & 11. Can you recommend some quality light weight models? Are the Razor Cut’s you recommended to Elaine above the best choice? Thanks!
@Kelly, If you have St. Augustine or Bermuda I would suggest the Fiskars Momentum: http://www.cleanairgardening.com/fiskars-momentum-reel-mower.html
Most other grasses work well with the Brill Razorcut 38. http://www.cleanairgardening.com/brill-razorcut-38-reel-mower.html
my reel mower isnt cutting my grass only bruising the grass and bending it not matter how tight i get the blades to the bar. any info on what the deal is?
cory, Sound like it needs to be sharpened or adjusted, maybe both.
Could a lawn be too small for a reel mower? We are buying a home that does have some grass in front with a lot of planting areas. I can get across it in about 10 paces at the widest point. The back yard is the same, deck, patio, planting areas, teeny bit of grass. I will need a mower as there is grass, but really dont want a gas machine for that small a yard. Perhaps electric?
@Laura, No, there is no such thing as a lawn to small for a push reel mower, the opposite is true though. You would not want to mow 10 acres with a push reel mower but mowing a small or even tiny lawn with a manual push reel mower is perfect.
Loved reading your site! Have a question though. My yard is one of those wild things made up of robust cape ivy daisies and tall grass. You’ve already said I’m not a good candidate for a reel mower. My question is, do you know of an alternative that would keep me from having to buy a power mower or a weed whacker? My weeds are tall, but the yard itself is small, and I hate the thought of wasting another hundred bucks at Home Depot on a cheap weed whacker that starts once or twice and then is junk. I’m trying a scuffle hoe now, but it’s a lot of work and leaves the ground torn up. What about those battery powered weed whackers?
@alan, Yes, a reel mower would not be your best choice since your lawn is on more natural side. An electric mower would likely work or even as you mentioned an electric string trimmer.
I have a Brill 380 and I love it. I never used it all winter ( of course) and when I went to charge it up, it wouldn’t. The red light on the charger doesn’t come on when I plug it in. Does that mean that my charger is shot and if so, where can I get another one.
@Peter Braun, For the Brill 380 battery try this company, they can rebuild the battery and should have chargers that will work: http://www.batterypackrecell.com
Greetings! Recently I have started mowing with a Craftsman reel mower, and I would like to know how to maintain it. Does it matter if I store it with damp grass clinging to it? Should I hose it off, or maybe sweep it off with a whisk broom? What about periodic lubrication for moving parts?
Thank you for your informative site, helping us to live more peaceful lives in harmony with our Mother Earth — Pachamama.
@Lynette Yetter, Yes, sweeping it off or even washing your reel mower with a hose after use is a good idea. You should not need to lubricate it more than a few times a season.
Thank you, Steve. This information is helpful for keeping my reel mower happy. Here are two more questions:
Where should I lubricate it and with what lubricant?
Should I just squirt WD40 on everything that moves?
So I have an old yardman model 1000 from the early 60′s. I was wondering if you might know the value of it?
@Lisa, We are not very familair with older reel mowers, but this guy may be able put a value on it: http://users.crocker.com/~jricci/
Hi there, I sent my Brill reel mower off to be sharpened by a local guy because it seemed to be ‘spinning’ at the end of a push (I thought this meant it needed sharpening). He had it for ten weeks because he said he couldn’t get the blades to touch the sharpening tool equally. He called his friend who was more experienced and he said he had done it. Now that I have it back it is worse than before! The blade height is 45mm (nearly two inches) and its hardly cutting anything, spinning even more. I am so annoyed. Firstly because having read your website it probably didn’t need cutting (it is two years old and we have very small garden) and secondly because I got everythig prepared today and then had to come inside as it wasn’t working. Please, do you have any advice ??? Thankyou, Janet.
@Janet, Sorry to hear about your trouble. The reel likely never needing sharpening, they most likely just needed to be adjusted. It’s possible they have destroyed the reel by taking the correct edge off them. Here is a video that shows you how to adjust it: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4xjt7zuCg7g
I have a push reel mower made by Savage arms corp.chicopee-falls,mass.modsl-350y.When was it made?
@Gary, Check out this site and ask them, they’re better with older models and may be able to date it: http://users.crocker.com/~jricci/